Have a Cigar

I think I may have inadvertently published the un-edited version of today’s events. Here is the final version.

The thought of the hotel’s evening buffet made the decision for me. So, back to Old Havana I went where I had a most enjoyable evening, people watching, listening to music

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and generally enjoying the sights and sounds of this elegant part of Cuba.

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I was persuaded to try a certain restaurant by its ‘salesman’ on the street although I was a touch concerned when he led me into some back alley, through a kitchen (of some other restaurant, I think!) and up a dark and dingy stairway. My fears were totally unfounded as I emerged into one of the smaller eateries I have ever visited , packed with  Cubans swaying and singing along to the inevitable live band (squeezed in at the back). I ate and drank well (for app £16) and was having a truly wonderfully relaxed time until two very drunk, late twenty something American girls walked (or rather stumbled) in. We’ve all been there, I suppose, but there’s nothing more likely to kill a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere stone dead than the entrance of loud, inebriated souls who think they are being terribly funny. I suspect they won’t have been quite so jolly this morning.

As this was likely to be my last visit to this fine part of Havana, I treated myself to a taxi ride back to the hotel in a 60 year old Chevrolet (or was it a Cadillac?).

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The driver told me this car belonged to his grandfather so, even though it was a real gas guzzler and expensive to run/maintain, as long as he could still get parts, he would never sell it.  As the average wage in Cuba is app US$50 per month this must be quite a challenge. Not surprisingly, many people have two or even three jobs to make a decent living. My driver is a fully qualified civil engineer

As I travelled in such ostentatious and old fashioned luxury last night, I avoided the line of taxis waiting outside the hotel today

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and settled on a more modest form of transport

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to the last on my list of ‘Things to do in Cuba’ – a visit to a cigar factory passing, on the way slightly less elegant abodes than in Old Havana.

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The factory -at least from the outside –  is quite an impressive, early 20th century building.

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The inside, though is more reminiscent of the inside of a prison (not that I have been to many!). You know the sort of thing I mean: metal walkways with ‘rooms’ off! Perhaps not surprisingly, during the tour, we were not allowed to take pictures  other than some description of the cigar brands made

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but our guide was quite forthcoming with some facts and figures. 600 workers making 20,000 cigars a day, all by hand. It’s easy to see why cigars are so expensive. It’s very labour intensive work. I was expecting that the air inside the factory would be drenched in the smell of cigars – especially as some of the workers were smoking (they are given 5 free cigars a day)-  but, amazingly this was not the case. For sure it was hot but there was little or no aroma. Strange.

On the way back to the hotel I again passed many splendid old colonial houses in desperate need of some TLC

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and came across a bronze sculpture that is, apparently, of John Lennon. Weird!

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Well, that’s me done here. Next stop : Roatan island in Honduras. It’s relatively close to Cuba but, for whatever reason my routing means a full day’s travel to get there. No gain without pain!

Host la luega again!

Richard

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