Yesterday, I reported on how idyllic and timeless the little seaside town of Russell appeared to be.
Today I learnt that this has not always been the case. In fact, back in the early part of the 19th century, this place was known as the Hell Hole of the Pacific! It was, at that time, the largest whaling station in the south Pacific and as such was constantly ‘invaded’ by sailors who had come to buy supplies, have their ships mended etc. And, as said gentlemen had sometimes been at sea for up to a year they also came looking for entertainment. So, the sale of alcohol and prostitution became the biggest industries in those days. Looks can be so deceiving!
The evening light on my way into Paihia yesterday evening was beautiful. What a day of changing colours it had been.
I also passed an interesting sign
How terribly British we were almost 200 years ago!
Today I decided on a land based adventure so headed for the Waitangi Treaty Grounds located just outside Paihia. This is the spot where, in 1840, Great Britain and the Maoris of New Zealand signed a treaty which was the founding document of this nation. The mover and shaker from the UK was a certain William Hobson, New Zealand’s first governor who lived with his wife and 6 children in this quite modest house albeit with a marvellous view.
As I had found in Auckland, entry into museums and the like in New Zealand ain’t cheap for foreigners and in my case not helped by the exchange rate. So, having forked out £22, I had to get my money’s worth so I learnt all about the longest/biggest Maori warship in the world.
Apparently, when Prince Charles took a ride in it when he visited way back with Princess Diana, the boat became so waterlogged it was impossible to drag it out of the water to where it lived. So it was just left on the beach and had a new house built around it where it remains today.
I was also subjected to some Maori entertainment
which I must say was quite interesting but left a lot to be desired.
For example, no explanation was given as to the meaning of all the seemingly bizarre facial contortions.
So it was quite difficult not to be amused by the whole thing which was probably not what was intended.
I’m moving on again tomorrow but not yet leaving New Zealand. So I may yet get to see the iconic kiwi bird.
Until the next stop.
Phileas
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