In February this year, cyclone ‘Winston’ killed 42 people in Fiji and left more than 50,000 people homeless. The forecasters say that the one heading this way right now might not be quite as bad which, of course, makes me feel a whole lot better!
The weather yesterday was not too bad so, mindful that it might be the last dry and sporadically sunny day for a while, I had a ‘Richard’ day, chilling by the pool, reading and catching up on a few emails, interrupted only by a very noisy helicopter ferrying people to a Christmas party in a marquee close to the hotel.
Considering the Fijian average annual salary is app £12,000, clearly a small percentage of the population are doing very well indeed although, just like everyone else, they got pretty wet when it bucketed it down later on!
Today’s weather, whilst starting out very overcast, was at least dry until mid afternoon so I indulged in a sightseeing trip courtesy of my new best friend, Junior, a taxi driver. During the course of the day, he insisted on showing me his home and introducing me to his wife and 8 children who all live in a tiny house seemingly comprising of just one living/sleeping/ eating area plus a bathroom.
Whilst not exactly living in poverty, these are poor people but, oh so happy. The smiles were not just for the camera. This short visit made me feel very humble and mindful yet again of the privileged life we lead. It’s good to be reminded every now and again.
Our first stop was at the First Landing resort where, according to legend, the first Fijians arrived back in 1500BC. Nobody is quite sure where they came from although one story I heard is that they originated from South Africa which I thought was a bit odd!
If you are looking for a secluded and romantic holiday this place would be ideal as long as you don’t want to wander outside the hotel perimeter as there’s nothing to see or visit other than the Total oil refinery!
Running parallel to many of the roads in this part of Fiji is a narrow gauge train track for transporting sugar cane to the local refinery (located next door to my hotel as you can see in the helicopter photo!).
The sugar cane cutting season lasts 6 months and must be back breaking work. Junior had a sugar cane cutting co driver who accompanied us as it’s the non cutting season now. He told me that, in the season, he goes to work ‘when I turn the lights off in the morning’ and comes home ‘when it’s time to put the lights on in the evening’. In short, probably a 12 hour day, working for buttons.
Our next stop was Denaru Island (separated from the mainland by only a tiny bridge) which is the main international resort area in Fiji.. I saw more westerners here in 5 minutes than I have seen in the whole time I have been in this country so far. What a contrast between this place and the rest of the island! Beautifully manicured roadways.
Expensive villas with private moorings, of course.
Every brand of luxury hotel you can think of
a water park
and even a Hard Rock cafe!
It’s difficult to know what Junior or his co driver think of this place although they did say, somewhat whimsically ‘we know this isn’t the real Fiji”! I just wonder how many of the tourists who come here actually step outside this highly cocooned environment.They should do as, apart from anything else, they could then enjoy the best fish and chips I have had in a long time.
and all for app £3!
As I like to know the geography of anywhere I visit, we stopped off in one of the more upmarket town-lets to buy a Fiji map.
Whilst waiting for Junior to reappear from his parking place, a middle aged gentleman started talking to me and totally unsolicited and perhaps slightly depressingly told me how far up the shop walls the water had risen during cyclone Winston. Once again, though, I was struck by how unbelievably friendly everyone seems to be.
Apart from the tourist and sugar cane industries, the export of wood chips is big business here.
So, next time I pop into Wickes to buy some bark chips I’ll take a look at the country of origin.
Guess what? It’s raining again!
Phileas
thelasthurrahsite 