Late yesterday afternoon, a Russian swimmer got into trouble and had to be rescued by one of the staff from my hotel. Mr Rusky was dragged ashore where he sat for a few minutes recovering from his ordeal. He then got up, mumbled a ‘thank you’ to the man who had saved his life and walked off to where he was staying. Considering the average (the average) monthly salary in this country is around £160, you would have thought that a more generous reward might have been in order.
The effects of the tsunami (2004?) which killed thousands are still talked about, not only the disaster itself but the after effects. It seems that too many Sri Lankans profited personally by diverting relief funds into their own pockets. I have been shown 2 hotels that were ‘built on tsunami money’. We know that corruption is endemic in poor countries but what is so sad is that most of the people here know what’s going on but feel powerless to do anything about it. So the few rich get richer and the vast majority get poorer.The current government has 3 more years before the next election. I would not be wholly surprised that sometime between now and then I learn of a more sudden change.
Geoffrey Bowa, a well known Sri Lankan architect (who, strangely, started life as a lawyer) designed and built a house and gardens at Lunuganga which is open to the public. As an alternative to frying on the beach, I took a look and was, once again, struck by how much the Sri Lankans have to learn about exploiting the assets they have. There were no signs to the place. There was no mention of special opening times on the internet but on arrival, the main gate was shut with a small notice stating that we (the few others waiting) would not be allowed in until 1130.
(N.B. Very large mahogany tree).
So we waited. By this time there were about 18 hot and humid folk who were eventually allowed in and ushered up the drive to the ticket desk where a little lady painstakingly hand wrote individual tax invoices for each of the assembled company!
When we finally moved off it became obvious that I had joined a load of either professional or amateur botanists. All I wanted to do was to have a gentle wander around the estate, take a few pics and leave. But our tour guide was having none of it. Every tree was stared at, every leaf was inspected. I do like gardens and gardening but this was a step too far!
The construction of this estate was started in 1947, just before Sri Lankan independence, took 20 years to complete and must have been stunning in its heyday.
A staff of 42 (2 in the house and 40 in the garden!) were employed to ensure the place was always in perfect condition for Mr Bowa’s occasional visits. He only ever visited for 1 day a week, his working residence being in Colombo, although his bust is in residence 24/7.
Now however, there is clearly not enough money being invested to arrest a gradual decline despite parts of the buildings being turned into a US$300 per night hotel
On a scale of 1 – 10 with Waddeson Manor, for example, being 10, I would say Lunuganga is a 3. I’m glad I went though as, frankly, there is little else here other than the glorious beaches. I can’t help feeling that a bit of help from a few key chaps from our National Trust would do wonders for this place.
The journey back to the hotel was slow,
hot and humid. So liquid refreshments from the main supermarket were in order.
Buddhism is the major religion in Sri Lanka although the temples are nowhere near as ostentatious as in Thailand.
but dedication is just as strong. I asked this man if the flowers he was collecting were for decoration or even for eating.
He smiled at me and simply said: “for Buddha”.
I have spied another cheap looking restaurant close to my hotel with an interesting looking menu and, equally importantly, selling beer (not all places do). So I shall venture out later for a quiet dinner
until the train rattles past!
Phileas
thelasthurrahsite 