Back in Thailand again we were soon seeing some familiar sights. Seriously overloaded trucks on the major highways

And, of course, the rain

which is hardly a surprise at this time of the year as September is often the wettest month of the year with the hope that October will see the beginnings of the dry ‘High Season’. Current temperatures right now hover between the high 20s and low 30s centigrade – quite a pleasant change from the blistering heat of earlier in the year although we have to contend with much higher humidity. At the time of writing (6pm), the outside temperature is 29.5c with a humidity of 89%.
Of course the ‘rainy season’ doesn’t mean it chucks it down 24/7 but when it does rain (invariably in the afternoons), the heavens often open to biblical proportions of precipitation which lead to short term flooding.

Luckily, such events rarely last for long and so far, at least, have not created the saturation we experienced last year nevertheless putting a limit on outside activities. It was during one such downpour , temporarily incarcerated in my office that, once again, I had time to reflect on my experience of living in Thailand, what I had learned and, above all, the cultural differences between life here and in ‘the west’.
Visitors to Thailand (and indeed other parts of south east Asia) whether on holiday or on business – will be forgiven for believing that this country really is ‘The Land of Smiles’ all the time; 24/7. It is true that, generally, the Thais are a happy people but when you live here – especially being married to a local- and start scratching the surface, you soon realise that the reality of this country is not always as it would at first appear and that the cultural and economic differences between the East and the West are far, far bigger than you appreciate during a short visit, no matter how often you travel to this great country. I know that, in one of my early blogs I highlighted a few of the, perhaps, more obvious differences between east and west but having lived here for a while now, I am still learning about and uncovering some distinctions between ‘us and them’.
For me, the most striking difference between Thailand and the West – at least the northern part of it – is the strength of the ‘family ‘ here. Thais have an almost mafia-like obsession with the importance of family unity. This is partly fuelled by necessity as government support (pensions, social welfare etc) is virtually non existent. Thus Thai children are taught from a very early age that it is their responsibility to look after their parents after they can no longer work and/or support themselves. And this family bond goes even further as, for example, when a younger family member runs into financial difficulties, others in the family will rally round and help however they can.
When it comes to culinary matters, I was brought up to believe in the concept of ‘3 square meals a day’ with each meal having a different style (eg bacon and eggs for breakfast, perhaps a salad for lunch and a heavier meal in the evening). In Thailand, however, eating is more of a constant affair with often the same type of food consumed irrespective of whether it’s morning, noon or night. And in between the larger meals there is regular ‘snacking’, more often than not of the healthier variety eg vegetables, soup, fruit etc rather than crisps, and other assorted snacks to be found in the west. And all this food consumption is invariably a social occasion – and in the case of those from the Isan province consumed on the floor-when it sometimes seems to be ‘open house’ where anyone who is passing by can drop in and partake of what’s on offer!

Not surprisingly , in a country where there is a huge gap between the ‘haves’ and ‘have nots’, aspirations of instant riches run high, no more so than when it comes to lottery days when countless hours are spent in choosing what is hoped to be the winning ticket. Ticket sellers are everywhere

and a huge amount of thought goes into choosing what are hoped to be the winning digits. It could be a new motorcycle registration number that is hoped will bring luck,or a number that came from a dream (Thais are a very spiritual lot), a birthday of a recently deceased relative but rarely, if ever just random.
The prospect of ‘losing face’ – or in other words, losing the respect of others – is a huge part of the culture of most countries in this part of the world and especially in Thailand where any form of confrontation is seriously frowned upon. Thus when, say, a foreigner becomes angry or even uses insulting language when he/she doesn’t get what he/she wants, the poor recipient suffers an enormous loss of face and invariably resorts to just smiling which can often make the situation worse. I have seen this happen a number of times!
Somewhat unfairly and a reputation that was fuelled by the US troops use of Thailand for R&R purposes during the Vietnam war, many people have the idea that Thailand is largely about drugs, sex and even rock and roll. Just not true. In fact, many Thais – and certainly the older ones- are very puritanical. So, expressions of familiarity – even hand holding – are rarely seen in the open. There is, of course, prostitution here, albeit technically illegal, as there is in every other country on the planet but I have yet to hear any stories of exploitation. Often it’s just members of the younger generation merely adding to their meagre daytime salary to support their family. The moral high ground on this matter is something for others, not me.
Living in the present moment is one of the central tenets of Buddhism, the dominant religion here. This is a joyous concept and stark evidence of the outward signs of happiness of the majority of Thais. The flip side, though, is that planning for the future – even in the short term – doesn’t come easily to many Thais and often leads to spur of the moment decisions which subsequently turn out to be reckless thus necessitating constant flip flopping. To a westerner brought up on the benefits of future planning, this can be very challenging!
Other things which take a bit of getting used to are:
a) Language. English is quite a flowery language. Thai is not. For example, we might say “would you be kind enough to pass the salt, please”. Thai is much more direct and might be just as simple as “pass salt” which, of course, when translated directly into English might appear rude. It is not.
b) Timekeeping. If you are obsessed with being ‘on time’ then, perhaps, Thailand is not for you. Thai time is +/- a lot!
c) Mendacity. I am becoming more convinced that there is no exact Thai word for a “lie” as Thais regularly spout untruths probably because they believe what they are saying is correct at precisely and only at the time they are saying it! The same often applies to a Thai promise!
d) Corruption. I could write a book on this topic but perhaps best published after my passing to avoid any repercussions ! After all, I am a guest in this country. Suffice it to say, though, that I prefer the openness of corruption here to the more pious attitude of denial in many western countries.
The sun has put it’s hat on so it’s time to get out and about again and not forgetting my camera so you may expect a more pictorial blog next time.
Until then
R











































































































