Author: thelasthurrahsite

No matter how long the actual flight, it always seems to take me most of the day to get from one country to another. I left my Hong Kong hotel at 9.30 this morning and by the time I had unpacked in Bangkok it was 5.00pm – and the flight was less than 2 1/2 hours. So, no time for exploring today, only stocking up on nibbles etc at the 7 Eleven across the street. On the way there and back I saw Patpong stallholders  getting ready for the eagerly anticipated evening rush in the market.

Each stall is erected and product displayed around this time 365 days a year and then, some 8 hours later, all unsold product is packed up and the stall dismantled until the same time tomorrow.

Close by the market there are, of course, food stalls frequented by both locals and some tourists.

The aromas wafting up from such places are seriously mouthwatering making a delightful change from the smell of the ever present carbon monoxide fumes!

The Thais must be on a health kick because I have never seen fruit stalls here before. The range of fruits on offer was impressive and I will definitely be stopping by this place tomorrow for some of my 5 a day.

Meanwhile, it was reassuring to see Tuk Tuks  still plying their trade

although their numbers are diminishing year by year as the drivers either die off (!) or advance to become 4 wheeled taxi drivers.

The workers prefer a more conventional method of getting home after their hard day’s labour.

I read recently that Bangkok is the most visited tourist city in Asia which set me thinking about tourism in general. We all know how economically important this industry is, especially to emerging nations but is it always a long term benefit? Is there not a danger that to encourage ever greater visitor numbers, the very things that made the city or country so attractive in the first place are destroyed? Is it really so important to build increasing numbers of Novotels, Holiday Inns, Sheratons or Shangrilas which look and are exactly the same all over the world? Is it so essential to replace quirky little small shops and restaurants wth globally branded restaurant chains often located in vast shopping malls? How do you balance the need to maintain the essential characteristics of a place which made it so attractive in the first place with the requirement of so many tourists who really do like the comfort of a Renaissance Hotel or even a Burger King?! Answers on a postcard, please.

Last night I was charged more than £6 for a pint of Carlsberg. I know the exchange rate is currently against me but that’s outrageous. I must be able to find something cheaper here, surely?

Phileas

I’m getting a bit paranoid about people who walk and text at the same time, especially here in Hong Kong where the streets can often be awash with people.

This guy just stopped abruptly mid sentence as it were and I just cannoned into him.

He then glared at me as though it was my fault. Grrrr!

Away from the quite westernised part of Hong Kong island where I am staying, across the harbour on the Kowloon peninsular is Mongkok, a hive of shopping and eating activity, mainly for the  Chinese.Entire streets are closed off to accommodate a vast street market where anything and everything is on sale from Chinese New Year decorations

to fake handbags,

the inevitable mobile phone accessories and some rather strange looking ladies underwear

And just around the corner in Nathan Road, every other shop seems to be selling jewellery, a lot of which appealing only to a certain market!

If the endless round of shopping is ever tiring, a good foot massage would probably do the trick – there’s a big choice.

I think something may have got lost in the translation of this optician.

As an escape from the fevered shopping experience of Mongkok, I took the Mass Transit’s newly opened underground line to the residential area of South Horizon on Aberdeen island. The contrast was extraordinary

with residential skyscrapers replacing commercial ones.

This conurbation just around the corner from Aberdeen harbour

is home to some 34 apartment blocks some of which rise up to 42 storeys tall and many with superb views of the outlying Hong Kong islands.

 

About 32,000 folk live here in almost serene calmness in comparison with the frantic pace of life a mere 10 minute underground ride away.

I think I have done more sightseeing in Hong Kong over the last few days than I did in all the years I was doing business here but that’s it. I’m off to another favourite haunt tomorrow – Bangkok -which I sincerely hope will be cheaper than here. £5.50 for a pint of Carlsberg is just a bit OTT I think.

Phileas

 

 

In addition to the spectacular skyline, most travel brochures feature 3 other iconic symbols of Hong Kong. The Peak tram was built in 1888 and was used mostly by colonial Brits to escape the heat at sea level.

It’s a rickety old thing but considering its age and the number of tourists (and some residents) who regularly use it, it’s done well. it only takes 7 minutes to climb from 28 metres to a height of nearly 400 metres.

When I first made the trip to The Peak many years ago, there were a number of open spaces to enjoy the spectacular view of Hong Kong Harbour. Sadly though, endless commercial greed has taken its toll and what was a delightful and reasonably peaceful place to go walking and to enjoy the scenery has now been enlarged (by building a sort of boat-like construction on top of the original building) and turned into yet another shopping and restaurant precinct.

There is still one smallish area where you can get a decent (albeit slightly murky) view of the Hong Kong skyline.

Before the Chinese took back control of Hong Kong in 1997, the tallest building near the waterfront was the HSBC tower. So, not to be outdone and to save face, the Chinese erected the Bank of China building which took the number 1 tallest spot by dint of having some sort of rugby goalpost  stuck on the top which made it 367 metres high (right hand side of the picture). But their No 1 status didn’t last long as the International Finance Centre building (middle of photo) eclipsed the China bank building by an extra 45 metres. And recently, the International Commerce tower on the Kowloon side (on the left, in the distance, (looking like a chimney stack) took the crown at 460 metres high. When will it end?

The best (albeit not the quickest) way to get from Hong Kong island to Kowloon on the mainland is by the famous Star Ferry which, by pure chance, also opened in 1888.

Although it is highly functional transportation ferrying thousands of people back and forth across the harbour every day, it’s probably the best 25ps worth of tourist activity anywhere in the world

where, amongst other things you get a fairly spectacular  and closer view of the second tallest building  in Hong Kong – the tallest being near the border with China.

The skill of the captains of these ferries is astounding as they weave their way through the heavy nautical traffic that also uses this waterway.

Back on Hong Kong island, preparations are well under way for the New Year celebrations

and close to my hotel I very nearly got run over by another Hong Kong travel icon

as I had just spotted this enormous advertisement that has appeared overnight close to my hotel.

Maybe they are running a special promotion over the holiday period! Not that this would would be of any interest to these guys

 

 

 

 

 

who, like so very many others, are fixated with texting and walking at the same time. I fear this may well just be an accident waiting to happen.

It’s my last full day here tomorrow so I must make a plan.

Phileas

It’s less than 1 week until Chinese New Year – the year of the Rooster. So most of Hong Kong was out and about doing even more shopping than a more normal Sunday.

This shop selling discounted chocolates was doing especially well.

Great cartons of Kinder Eggs, Ferrero Rocher and the like were flying out of the door.

Parts of Central district (the most upmarket commercial and shopping area in Hong Kong) were closed though to accommodate some sort of classic car rally.

 

Actually, it turned out to be more than a car rally as there were a number of medalled dignitaries milling around plus a marching band.

It was quite an odd sight. A Chinese band pretending to be Scots marching in between classic cars and a Cartier shop. Burns night is on Wednesday so maybe it had something to do with that.

There are more than 140,000 Filipinos working in Hong Kong – most of them in domestic service. So, whilst their bosses take time off at Chinese New Year, many of them go back home for a week or so with the spoils of their hard earned labour all of which has to be packed up before shipping out.

And those who are not sending anything home just meet up as they do every Sunday to eat and chat.

The sound is extraordinary – a bit like some amplified aviary!

With so much stimulus going on at ground level, it’s easy to miss some of the spectacular modern buildings of Hong Kong.

Seriously impressive constructions  are everywhere

and even a bit of retro architecture has been squeezed into an area previously occupied by the Hong Kong Fire Brigade!

The cycle of ‘bulldoze it down and start again’ is relentless

but does create a marvellously ever changing skyline. I hope, though, that some of the older parts are preserved

as to me this higgledy piggledy mess of colourful signs and eclectic shops are just as much a symbol of Hong Kong as the ultra modern skyscrapers.

And finally, I seems that the Chinese have, at last, recognised they can’t pronouns their ‘Rs’.

Ta la.

Phileas

 

 

I’m not sure although my trip down memory lane has been interesting. Not a lot seems to have changed (at least not for the better) since I regularly travelled to the Philippines on business. The corruption seems to be just as bad and the  slums and overcrowding in Manila with the attendant traffic problems and subsequent pollution probably worse. Many of the pavements are pedestrian unfriendly so getting around either on foot or by motor vehicle is very difficult. On the other hand, the climate is perfect, the people smiling and friendly and the music just the best. There is also some beautiful countryside and unspoilt beaches out there somewhere but getting to them from the capital is challenging to say the least. Development of tourism which could be a major revenue earner is seriously slow, lagging well behind other countries in South East Asia.

I treated myself to a very quiet day yesterday – my last in the Philippines. The effects of a rather splendid curry the previous night also dictated that I didn’t stray too far from my room! So, it was a packing, laundry, onward travel arrangements and even some reading day before a relatively early night and early start today.

I have used Uber on a number of occasions on my travels and always found the service to be an excellent  and cheaper alternative to ‘normal’ taxis. However, today things went wrong. I was unaware that Manila airport has two international terminals. My driver took me to the wrong one which I only discovered after he had left. And of course, my terminal was not a walkable distance so I had to take a ‘normal’ taxi to get there at an extra cost of US$25 – nearly missing my flight in the process! In Uber’s defence, within minutes of registering a complaint, my fare had been refunded (but not the US$25!).

In sharp contrast,  the efficiency of Hong Kong is immediately apparent.The queue at immigration moves quickly and the baggage arrives on the carousels equally as fast. Transport to the downtown area is easy and using the airport express train is hassle free. Pedestrians keep to the uncluttered pavements and traffic discipline is obvious. The inevitable downside of all this is that everything costs a lot more, not helped by the lousy £:HK$ exchange rate.

Things move at an extraordinary pace in Hong Kong. It’s not that long ago that I was last here but boy, how things have changed. Where I had an office for a while

is now a building site preparing, presumably for yet another high rise block.

One of my favourite watering holes (Delaney’s) is now called ‘Taboo’

and the super curry house that I frequented has morphed into a Turkish restaurant.

It seems that, of all my old haunts, only one has survived!

There is still, however, some evidence of ‘old Hong Kong’ here in the Wanchai district

with an eclectic mix of food stalls,

hardware stores and

restaurants but I just wonder how long these independent outlets can survive.

As soon as the sun goes down, the lights go on and this part of Hong Kong prepares for another night of fun and games

and it’s a Saturday!

I need to get my sweater out for exploring tomorrow as it’s quite cold – about 18c!

Phileas.

As the world waits to see how Trumpety Trump behaves once he gets into office, I am reminded that the Philippines has had an equally unconventional, right wing president since the middle of last year. President Duterte has declared war on crime and drugs in this country if necessary by “killing thousands of criminals”. He has gone on record as saying he has personally despatched at least 3 of them and that “I’m used to shooting people”. I can’t believe that even Donald T would make such outrageous utterings. Interestingly, when you talk to locals, about 50% of them think that Duterte is doing a good job because the drug problem, in particular, was getting out of hand. In fact one taxi driver claimed that 80% of the population were on drugs, even in the highest levels of government! I must say I haven’t seen anyone floating around in a catatonic state  yet so Duterte’s  tough anti drugs’ policy must be working, mustn’t it?

When I first came to the Philippines the population was around 40 million. Today it stands at more than 100 million thanks in part to the staunchly held views that many Catholics here have about contraception! So it’s difficult to know how the ever widening gap between the small number of the wealthy (and there are some seriously rich Filipinos) and the large % of very poor will ever become narrower.  This is all too evident in the vast urban sprawl that is Metro Manila.

I have seen so many tragically poor areas which, frankly, I was too embarrassed to photograph. Pile upon pile of rotting refuse being picked over by young and old alike in a desperate attempt to find something worth selling or eating. Fathers and sons sifting through rubble on building sites

in the hope of salvaging something. Swimmers scratching around the sea bed in Manila bay looking for sellable flotsam and jetsam

and young boys on the streets of the wealthier areas with arms outstretched asking for a few pesos. And all this going on within the general mayhem of Manila’s traffic

where pavements are often given over entirely to food stalls

or used as car parks!

Despite everything it would seem that the vast majority of Filipinos are content and even happy with their lot, many working extraordinarily long hours to keep the body and soul of their (often large) family together. And they are not all trying to rip of ‘wealthy’ foreigners.

This young lad, sensing my reticence to cross the busy street on a crossing where I waited in the hope that some vehicle might let me pass just marched into the middle of the chaos and stopped the traffic for me. Impressive! So, yes, I did give him a few pesos to reward his gallantry!

By no stretch of the imagination can Manila be described as a beautiful city

but the late afternoon light does lead a little enchantment to the view, as they say. No place is this more apparent than looking out over Manila bay

which is, understandably, a favourite walking, talking and picture taking spot.

For just a moment or two it’s possible to forget the urban jungle just a few meters away with its vast array of delights to whet the weary wanderer’s appetite.

I don’t think that watching boxing midgets is really my sort of thing, though.

Phileas

Last night I found a bar/restaurant where the live music was brilliant. So I spent a very pleasant few hours enjoying the sounds in the company of 3 Jacks that would make a certain friend very jealous! I, however, stuck to beer as usual but was still a bit fuzzy this morning!

On the way back to my hotel I was accosted by a very attractive ladyboy who asked me, in a very high and somewhat squeaky voice, if I wanted any company. When I replied with the stock answer “Sorry but my wife’s waiting for me in my hotel room” his/her voice dropped a couple of octaves and in a deep bass said ‘ OK darling. Have a good evening’!

Having fully recovered from this encounter, this morning I battled through the horrendous traffic once more (it really is very, very bad) as I was determined to visit Intramuros, the walled city built by the Spaniards as their Philippine HQ after they had conquered the country at the end of the 16th century. It is an area rich in history both old and, thanks to WWII, quite new. To get the most out of my visit I employed the services of a local 24 year old and his trusted cycle taxi

who proudly told me he had been working as an Intramuros tour guide for 8 years!! His knowledge of the area was truly encyclopaedic. He confused me at first by saying that he had been born in the USA until, with a smile he told me this meant Unofficial Squatters Area

very close to some fine examples of Spanish architecture.This one is now owned by a wealthy Chinese gentleman who insists on repainting it in some fairly un Spanish colours every year for good luck!

There are not so many well preserved buildings in Intramuros but there is one which shows in what style the ruling Spanish lived whilst poverty existed all around them and to some extent still does today. Beautifully appointed accommodation

with splendid courtyards

patios and terraces.

Unsurprisingly, churches abound here, one of the oldest being that of San Augustin which was opened in 1607

where today a wedding ceremony was about to begin.

The outer walls of Intramuros somewhat curiously adjoin Manila’s city centre’s golf course

which my guide told me was ‘only for the rich people’. As there was not a rich person in sight, I was in no danger.

The battle for the retaking of Manila in 1945 from the Japanese was a truly atrocious affair. Much of Manila was flattened including many of the beautiful old buildings in Intramuros. Either through lack of desire or lack of funds (or both) there is still much evidence of the devastation and unbelievable barbarism meted out mainly by the Japs.

This battlement originally sat on the water’s edge before post war reclamation work began and regularly filled with tidal water. The Japanese held American and Filipino prisoners here. When the tide came in, those who could not swim drowned. And those who could were shot anyway. Charming!

The battle for the liberation of Manila took a heavy toll. It is estimated that more than 100,00 civilian men, women and children died in the fighting between February and March 1945.

I’m now off for a beer to cheer myself up!

Phileas

To avoid the possibility of hearing any more bad news, this morning I flicked through the TV sports channels instead where, to my horror, I came across a channel showing cock fighting. Horrific! As a result I thought that a more tranquil day would be in order so I headed for Rizal Park.

Sightseeing in Manila is not easy as getting from one place to another takes forever due to the high volumes of 24/7 traffic. My taxi journey of around 10km took more than 1 hour and cost a little over £2! How taxi drivers make any money is beyond me. In fact, my fluent English speaking driver told me that he works a 16 hour day, 6 days a week and after paying for petrol and the taxi rental, he takes home  about £11 per day if he’s lucky.  He would work 7 days a week but in a feeble attempt to reduce congestion, the government prohibits vehicles on the road for 1 day a week (by number plate recognition). This is, of course, no problem for the wealthy as they just buy another car with a different number plate!!

Rizal Park is more than just a large open space. It’s a chance to learn about the struggle for independence by the Philippine people firstly from 400 years years of Spanish rule and subsequently, from the late 19th century, 50 years of colonial rule by the USA. Jose Rizal is generally considered to be the leading mover and shaker in the fight to kick out the Spaniards and after whom this park is named.

He was no fighter but his writings were seen as a major catalyst for the rebellion against the Spanish. So he was arrested and shot at the tender age of 36 close to this monument.

The exact spot is marked by some quite evocative sculptures depicting his execution

where scores of schoolchildren sat listening to an impressive audio commentary about the lead up to and the reason for his death. A pretty good way to learn history, I thought.

In the centre of the park there is a sizeable lake which, I am told, has impressive fountains. Today, however, these were being repaired or cleaned so were not working.

Around the perimeter of this water there are numerous bust sculptures of lesser heroes of the Philippine struggle for freedom many of whom met a rather grisly end.

At the far end of the park there is the rather impressive Museum of Anthropology museum

behind which another group of schoolchildren were involved in what seemed to be an exercise routine perhaps preparing for a long journey home.

And a further group were involved in some sort of measuring lesson by the monument that dominates the far end of the park..

I have absolutely no idea what that was about.

Generally, though, this oasis of calm in the middle of a chaotic city is where people just stroll, picnic or enjoy an afternoon’s chess game with friends.

There is even an area dedicated to people like me

although I have to say it was less than impressive.

A short walk from the park is the famous Manila Hotel

which was US General Macarthur’s HQ in WWII until the Japanese overran the country. Supposedly, he uttered the famous ‘I shall return’ line from here but in reality he said this after his successful escape to Australia. He did, however, return.

For my part, I will return tomorrow.

Phileas

I woke this morning to the cheery news that the £ had slumped again on the exchange markets and has now lost 20% of its value against the US$ and thus many other currencies since the Brexit referendum. I am sure this will help the UK tourist industry and our exports but it certainly doesn’t help travellers like me! So it’s more food from the street stalls then.

Diesel fuel at 50-60p a litre  in Manila is a great inducement to cram the roads with motor vehicles of all types including, of course, the iconic jeepney bus

which were originally fashioned from the jeeps left behind by the Americans after the 2nd World War and by the look of some of them they are the originals! All this metal on the roads leads to a chaotic mess – just as I remember it. The only change is that lane discipline seems to have improved. I haven’t seen too many people driving on the wrong side of the road – yet! The traffic police do their best to keep things flowing with lots of flailing arms and whistle blowing

but it really is a hopeless task especially during rush hour(s) when most of the major roads are gridlocked.

The other thing that hasn’t changed is the number of people carrying guns. The security guard business is huge here. More or less every shop, every hotel , restaurant, apartment block and certainly every bank has one or more gun carrying guards outside. So, if you fail to get into the police force or armed forces you become a security guard, get a smart uniform – and a gun.

I am told that most of these weapons have never been fired and are probably now too old and rusty to work  but I hope I never have to find out, especially if faced with something a little more sinister than a handgun.

Makati, where I am staying, is just one part of the urban sprawl that is Metro Manila and its 13 million inhabitants. It is the commercial heart of the city

and certainly the wealthiest area. it is bursting with banks, shopping malls, designer shops

staffed by lovely Filipina ladies

and top class hotels.

Way back, I used to stay here and recall that the price was US$40 per night! Not a bad deal when the rack rate for a room is now around US$300!

Based on what I have seen and shown today, one could be forgiven for thinking that the Philippines is a wealthy country. The reality is the opposite as the average annual income for a Filipino is around $3500. Yes, that’s per year! Yet another example of the huge gap between the ‘haves’ and the ‘have nots’. Today I have seen a fair few ‘haves’. In the coming days I will doubtless see many more ‘have nots’.

When I am out and about with a real camera (as opposed to my camera phone) I am always amused by people’s reaction to my happy snapping. There are very few who just don’t want to be photographed (a bit like me, really); others who just ignore me and get on wth their lives and a number who just love having their photo taken.

This man just walked up to me and asked if I would take his picture.

I obliged. He thanked me, shook my hand, said ‘I’m from Turkey’ and walked off! Strange.

I am not taking my camera out tonight and I think I will wear my £6 Tesco watch. It keeps perfect time!

Phileas

Despite the less than satisfactory weather (yes, it’s raining again!), I have left Vietnam with a feeling of unfinished business, despite being in the country for close to 2 weeks. Whilst I was a bit dubious about the overtly touristy  town of Nha Trang,  from what I have seen of other parts have left me with a definite desire to come back and explore more. Yes, there is beautiful scenery, there are amazing beaches and stunning food but it’s the people who mark this country out as being something special. They all seem so genuinely happy and friendly. The only thing that is not top drawer is the singing!

In my hotel last night there was some staff party  which of course included a good deal of karaoke – most of which was sung very loudly and completely out of tune. It was truly a dreadful noise. If this happened in the UK, the perpetrator of such an excruciating sound would have been left in no doubt about his inability to hold a tune. Here though, the worse the noise became the more the audience seemed to enjoy it. Extraordinary!

On the other hand, the filipinos are known for their musical talents so I am looking forward to listening to sounds that are more pleasing on the ear. I remember listening to Bohemian Rhapsody sung in the lobby lounge of some hotel in Manila by a local group shortly after it had been released in the UK (that dates me!). Freddie Mercury would have been proud of them.

It has taken me exactly 12 hours door to door to get from Hoi An to (rainy) Manila even though the places are not that far apart. But what with a long transit time in Ho Chi Minh and excruciatingly long immigration queues in Manila, by the time I got to my hotel it was too dark and late to do any exploring. I did, however, find a 7 Eleven to stock up on a few beers and some orange juice where I was accosted by 2 young lads asking for money. So not a lot has changed here then. A wise decision I think to scuttle back to my residence and leave the exploring until tomorrow in the daylight.

Philes, the trepid explorer!